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Hair Problems and Hair Problem Solutions - by Doris Moller

Limp Hair

Before I explain how to treat and style limp hair lets first find out what limp hair is really like. The following are characteristics that describe limp hair. It is of fine to average thickness (the diameter of each hair) has high density (the number of hairs on your scalp) and is straight. This is the type of hair that does not hold a style that has volume and goes flat in no time. I am extremely familiar with this kind of hair because this is the type of hair I have. You would never know I have limp hair when you look at me. It looks like my hair has lots of body. My hair style lasts for days and days. I will tell you my secret in a minute.
Most women who have limp hair have natural blonde hair ranging from dark blonde (mousey blonde) to very light blonde hair and women with these hair colors have the highest density of hair (I am one of those people). In other words they have the greatest amount of hair on their scalp compared to other natural hair colors. Here is a breakdown of the average number of hairs on the scalp for each hair color:
· Blonde – 140,000 hairs
· Brown - 110,000 hairs
· Black - 108,000 hairs
· Red -- 90,000 hairs
In case you were wondering how you can count all that hair on your scalp here is how it is done. You count the hair on one square inch and then the entire area of the scalp is measured.
You could say that red heads rarely have a problem with limp hair because of the low density of their hair given that high density is the main culprit.
The combination of straight hair, fine to average thickness and high density makes it difficult to have a hair style with volume. A woman with fine hair and a natural wave has it much easier because the natural wave or curl, gives the hair body.

Limp hair - how to treat it?

So, what can you do to have a hair style that not only looks good but lasts several days so that you don’t have to do your hair every day? There are two possibilities.
1. If you have the kind of face shape where you can and want to wear your hair fairly flat, at short or medium length, then all you need is a good hair cut. The most important thing about your hair cut is that it also is layered in the proper proportions. The layers will give you the right amount of volume and make your hair come alive. Remember, hair that is totally one length will lie flat no matter what you do to style it.
The secret to styling limp, straight and high density hair and having a hair style that lasts
2. When you have limp hair and the shape of your face is either round or square then you need more volume on the top to balance your face and to have your hair style suit you. In this case the perfect solution that is a permanent wave which will give your hair body and to make your hair style last. This is the secret to solving the problem of styling limp hair.
Not just a body wave, but a tighter curl. If the wave/curl is too loose (a body wave has a loose wave) you won’t have enough body. That being said, it is only logical to have a good hair cut. It is the foundation for your perm and hair style. You must also make sure that your hair is the right length because if it is too long for your style your hair will fall flat again. Make sure you have your hair cut every six weeks.
But, what happens to the body in your hair as the perm grows out? After about two and a half months your hair will start to lose its body because the roots become straight. Do you have to wait until your perm has grown out before perming your hair again?. You don’t have to wait until your perm has grown out before having another perm. What is the solution? You can have a root perm. A root perm is a technique where only the straight part (your re-growth) gets permed. With this hair perming method you can always have body in your hair as well keep your hair healthier.
Now, you may be afraid that a permanent wave will damage your hair. A perm does make the cuticle of your hair stand out to a certain degree (which is the sign of damaged hair). The good news is that your hair can easily cope with this state because it is such a strong fiber. I am a perfect example. I have been perming and highlighting my very straight limp hair for years now and my hair still looks great and has wonderful body. My clients always comment on how great hair looks and when I tell them that I have limp hair they can’t believe it. Having highlights makes it that much better because it adds more body.
Should you perm colored hair?
You can definitely perm color treated hair. I have done it for my clients for many years. I have permed and colored hair the same day and never once had a problem.
When your hair has a permanent wave you need to style it after shampooing it. You can not just wash it and leave it or only dry it with the blow dryer. (Unless you prefer to leave your hair curly)
If you want to have a hair style that has volume and hair that looks smooth, shiny and healthy you need to style it after shampooing. The best thing to do after shampooing is to apply a conditioner as well as an extra hold setting lotion. The best way to apply the setting lotion is to pour an amount equal to a twenty-five cent piece into the palm of your hand, then distribute it to the other hand and gently rub it in your hair and the root area. Comb your hair through.
You can now dry your hair a little with the blow dryer first. You can either style your hair with a round brush and a blow dryer or set it with Velcro rollers on damp to wet hair, making narrow sections for each roller and winding the hair neatly and with tension around each roller and then drying it with a hair dryer. However the most effective method is to sit under a dryer or a dryer cap for about thirty minutes. Putting Velcro rollers into dry hair will not give your hair a proper shape.

Oily Hair
The Truth about Oily Hair
by Doris Möller

What is oily hair? A person who suffers from oily hair knows exactly what oily hair looks like and what it feels like. It sticks together, lies flat, separates and is impossible to style any more.
What is the cause of oily hair? It is caused by the over activity of the sebaceous glands. Have a look at the illustration and you will see where it is located. Sometimes an oily scalp occurs in combination with dandruff, but very often hair is only oily.
Why do the sebaceous glands produce abnormal amounts of sebum? If you know the cause you might be able to do something about it. One thing for sure, it is definitely caused internally and not by something you are doing externally such as brushing, shampooing, conditioning, styling lotion, unless you are using a heavy styling aid such as a pomade etc. that makes your hair oily.
The cause of oily hair can be one of the results of hormonal changes; teenagers often suffer from oily hair. Another cause is illness. When a person is not well this can be one of the symptoms. I have observed this many times when some of my clients were suffering from an illness their hair was oily. Also, taking medications can be the cause as can extreme stress.
The scientific fact is that it is an internal problem that manifests itself externally.

What can you do to treat oily hair? Unless you know what the cause is e.g. illness, stress, and medication and change that situation than the only thing that is left to do is to shampoo your hair every day or as often as necessary to remove the oil from your scalp and hair. Any shampoo has the ability to do that because it is in its chemical make-up to lift the oil and dirt particles off your scalp and hair with the help of water.

No shampoo will remedy oily hair. No product that you can apply externally will have any effect. You might be worried that the shampoo is going to dry out your hair. Again the scientific fact is that a shampoo has a pH of below 7 and that means that it is acid balanced and will not disturb (dry out) your scalp’s and hair’s pH balance.

How to style cowlicks
by Doris Möller

The Cowlick on Your Crown Area

There are usually three types of cowlicks that you might have to deal with. The biggest one is on your crown area. To understand why it can give us problems styling our hair you have to know what a cowlick really looks like.
Cowlick hair naturally grows from a point. On the crown area the hair points forward towards the front, the sides and then downward towards your nape. Like this:
Everybody is born with a cowlick on the crown area of their head. They can vary slightly. Chances are you inherited one either from your father or your mother. Each hair protrudes from your scalp protrudes from that central point on your crown growing forward and downward. It looks like a point from which the hair grows in all directions.
If you are happy to wear your hair forward then you won’t have any problems because you are following the direction of the hair growth. But, if you want to style your hair in the opposite direction your hair is growing then it will resist you by either sticking out or falling forward and sideways, creating a part.
The main problem for women as far as the cowlick on the crown is concerned, is not so much that the hair sticks out but that the hair separates at the crown area and lays in the direction it grows. When that happens it may give the appearance that your hair is thinning there. However, rest assured it has nothing to do with that, it is only an optical illusion.
The problem comes from where the hair grows forward in the cowlick because you usually want to style your hair in the opposite direction, in the direction of your nape. Usually, Mother Nature wins, unless you outsmart it. At least we can try.

The Cowlick Solution

Various solutions have been suggested to manage cowlick problems. (Some people have suggested using electrolysis to remove the hair on that spot. The problem is that you are left with no hair there. Not such a good idea). However I have learned through experience as a hair stylist (and on my own hair) that the secret to a problem free cowlick is the length of the hair on the crown. It must not be too long nor must it be too short. If the hair there is too short it will stick out. If it is too long it will separate.
If your hair is straight you can also have a permanent wave to manage your cowlick, in addition to the right length of hair to solve your cowlick problem. Why a perm? Because a perm will redirect the root area and therefore make the hair fall in the direction you want it to go at least until the perm has grown out about an inch. Therefore for straight hair the best solution to prevent the hair from falling flat and separating on the crown area is to have the right length and a permanent wave. When done properly it works really well.

The Nape Cowlick

The cowlick in the nape area occurs when the hair on your neck grows up and the hair above it grows down. This is what makes your hair stick out.

The Nape Cowlick Solution

To prevent it from sticking out, you can either cut the hair short enough in that area so it won’t be able to stick out or shape it in such a way as to give it heaviness which will cause it to lie flat. You can also cut the hair underneath (using either scissors or clippers). If you don’t want to do that you can apply some permanent lotion to hair that is growing up and then comb it down flat, to redirect the roots. Let it process for the required time.

Cowlick in the Front Forehead Area

The third type of cowlick is in the front of your head. When the hair in the front at the hairline grows up and to the right and to the left of your head it will separate and make a part. It is most annoying especially if you want to have bangs and always end up with a part.

The Front Cowlick Solution

What can you do about that? You can use a bigger section for bangs to make the hair heavier and blow style it with a round brush (down) into shape. If done properly your hair will not separate. You can also perm that part of the hair (redirecting the roots) and then blow style it. This is more effective and will last until the perm starts to grow out.      
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