Why colored red hair colors fade so fast

Hair Coloring Tips:  When we color hair in red tones with permanent hair color (permanent hair color is the most versatile and effective type of hair color) and no matter the tone you use – mahogany, chestnut, flaming red, auburn, etc. you’d expect such strong hair colors to last the longest. However, surprisingly they don’t  and they fade faster than any other permanent hair color you use.

The reason for this is because red color molecules are smaller than any other hair color shade/tone molecules with which hair is colored. Red color molecules being smaller are washed out/fade faster from hair that is colored with a red tone even permanent hair color.

To refresh a red toned hair color you may use a semi-permanent type of hair color in between permanent hair coloring applications to intensify the color again. Since hair, which is colored with a permanent hair color is usually more porous, the semi-permanent hair color adheres well to this type of textured hair. Especially in the ends of the hair because they are usually the most porous part of the hair. (Make sure it’s really a “semi-permanent” hair color and not a demi-permanent hair color).

What is important to know is the more porous (dry/damaged) hair is the faster the color will fade. One of the reasons hair, which is colored with a permanent hair color becomes very porous, is because every time the permanent hair color is applied it is applied over the entire hair when the correct way is to only apply the color on the re-growth. This method makes the hair more and more porous.That is the major reason the color fades because the red color molecules literally fall out of the hair.

However since the red tones fade easily you basically have no choice but to apply the color through to the ends when the color needs to be applied again. There is a method you can use to mitigate the fading of the color and and not damage the hair as much when using permanent hair color and that is:

Mix more permanent hair color as usual, apply the color on the re-growth, process for 15 minutes (check the processing time of the hair color manufacturer). Don’t throw out  what is left of your hair color mixture. After 15 minutes mix the remainder of the hair coloring mixture with a little bit of water and apply it to the rest of the hair bringing it through the ends and process it for another 15 minutes.

This hair coloring information will help you too when you color your hair at home. Check out the secrets of the New Home Hair Coloring System of The Right Hair Color for You.

Hair color manufacturers have introduced products that are supposed to prevent fading of red toned hair colors yet in my experience it has not made any difference.

 

 

The Mystery of the Digital Permanent Wave – Is it New Technology?

By Doris Möller

I have been wondering about Digital Permanent Waves, the latest in hair perming techniques. A new way to do a permanent wave that promises you to give you that perfect wave/curl.

So, what is different or better about a Digital Permanent Wave compared to other permanent waves?

A digital perm requires – after the perm is wrapped on very large perm rods – and the perm solution has been applied, that clamps, that are attached to wires and connect to a machine, be placed on each rod to heat it. This way of perming hair has not been seen since the 1920’s and – 30’s.

Digital Perm Machine used in South Korea

Digital Permanent Wave Machine used in Korea

Having a Digital Permanent Wave

You might not know this, there are two different types of permanent solutions that hair stylists can use to perm hair. One is an alkaline solution with a 7-8 pH value which does not require any heat. (With a pH value above 7 a perm lotion is alkaline).

Years ago it was called a ‘cold wave’ because it didn’t require heat to activate the process which was a great improvement when you think that before that time heat was required to make the solution work in the hair. You probably have seen pictures of machines that had cables attached to a clamp that fit on each perm rod on the head and heated it up. Without heat it was ineffective.

Perm-Machine Cables used in the 1930's to add heat

The second type of perm lotion used to perm hair is an acid perm. It’s called that because its pH value is below 7 (7 being neutral) and is therefore acidic. It is supposed to be gentler on the hair. But acidic perms typically need to be activated by adding heat which is usually supplied by a hot hair dryer that you sit under for the required processing time.

So now we have the Digital Perm which also requires heat to work and that heat comes from cables and clamps attached over each perm rod. Have we not seen this before?

However, the permanent wave lotion used for a digital perm is slightly acidic, with a pH of about 6.7.

What I have noticed is that very large rods are being used for a digital perm (probably because of the size of the clamps) and the first two inches or so of hair from the scalp are flat – which means this part will have no wave/curl. Also that flat area becomes larger because of the barrier placed between the scalp and the hair for heat protection. In other words the ‘curl/wave’ only starts several inches away from your scalp.

With such large perm rods this type of perm can only be useful for a  person with long hair who wants to have a perm that will give little movement/wave/ or a very large wave only.

Look of a digital perm

However, typically such a  perm may in a short while have little or no wave left once the perm relaxes as all perms do.

If you want to perm shorter hair in order to give it body and volume a digital perm is not for you.

To summarize, a ‘digital permanent wave’ is actually an acid type of perm. But now because of the addition of heat to process it, it has a new name it’s called ‘digital permanent wave’. And this ends the mystery of the ‘digital perm’.